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How To: Reworking CMP/Dupage/Boyds M1 Garand Stocks

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  • How To: Reworking CMP/Dupage/Boyds M1 Garand Stocks

    There has been questions about the fit of commercial stocks lately so I thought I would post my findings
    In my opinion all Boyds/Dupage/CMP stocks need "some" work. Some more than others. Here are a few things I have found that need checked
    You need to check the width of the barrel channel. If it is to narrow it will hold the barrel up and result in your rifle shooting high. Bevel edges of stock channel so barrel does not touch
    I also had a problem with the stock ferrule setting to high and the Op Rod rubbed hard on it .A slight rub is normal as this is a grease point,mine set unusually high and didnt pass the tilt test.

    I carved out some wood so the stock ferrule would set in proper position in stock and had to fill in the area on the bottom since the ferrule set lower so it would stay in place when tightened
    I taped off the stock, and applied paste wax to the ferrule for a release.
    Then placed JB Weld to the bottom of where the ferrule sets on the stock, put ferrule in place and start to tighten the screw but not all they way
    Last edited by Orlando; 08-16-2020, 03:44 PM.
    "I am the master of my unspoken words, and a slave to those that should have remained unspoken. ...

  • #2

    Problem fixed.
    "I am the master of my unspoken words, and a slave to those that should have remained unspoken. ...


    • #3
      Next issue, although it isnt a big one is sometimes the stock needs to have a cutout where the firing pin/bolt would hit. You can see here where the bolt contacted the stock when fired

      Also may need alittle wood releived so the trigger clears when fired

      If there is a small dent there the trigger is hitting and needs some wood removed
      Last edited by Orlando; 02-21-2020, 04:21 PM.
      "I am the master of my unspoken words, and a slave to those that should have remained unspoken. ...


      • #4
        Now on to the next issue. Set action in stock and install/lock the trigger assembly. Looking from the side of the rifle there should be a very small amount of clearance approx 1 1/4 inch from the back of the receiver to the back of the receiver legs. Hold it up to the light will make it easier to see. I'm only talking about the thickness of a piece of paper
        If your stock doesnt have this wrap a piece of sandpaper around a block of wood and sand to proper clearance

        Dont forget to do the tilt test
        You can see here where the OP Rod was rubbing , I removed a small amount of wood along the whole length

        The Op Rod was rubbing pretty good all long the inside, so I removed wood there also

        The rear handguard was to long on the nose and extended to far through the band and actually kept the front handguard front sitting where it should. Remove wood as needed

        Just a few things that you should check and you can do to improve the fit of these stocks
        "I am the master of my unspoken words, and a slave to those that should have remained unspoken. ...


        • #5
          Can't have &quot;too much information&quot; when fitting stocks...

          .... and so...

          There you are!
          Last edited by LavaTech; 08-14-2017, 02:35 PM.
          Appleseed Project: Where marksmanship meets history and the heritage begins.
          Revolutionary War Veterans Association
          Paying Tribute To April 19, 1775 Through Awareness, Learning & Marksmanship.


          • #6
            Really good info above. I have found that I have had to remove material from the inside of the rear hand guard to get it off the barrel.


            • #7
              Originally posted by razzman1 View Post
              I have a Dupage stock on the way to my house as we speak, so this was the perfect post at the perfect time.

              Heres a little more info. Not nessacary to do but I like my stocks slimmed down even more
              close they had a slight overhang so I decided to do some work on them
              I started off with 60 grit sandpaper until I had it shaped to proper size. I then used 100 and 150 and 180 for final sanding.
              I used a set of Post War handgaurds as models for proper size
              Here are some before and after pics. The rear handguard as it was fairly close to size and didnt need much

              "I am the master of my unspoken words, and a slave to those that should have remained unspoken. ...


              • #8

                I took quite a bit off the forearm to get it to size
                I used a Post War Stock and handguards as a model for measurements.

                After everything was sanded I applied several hand rubbed coats of medium walnut Watco Danish oil (available at Lowes, paint stores ,etc)
                Applying the first coat with 600 grit wet/dry sandpaper rubbing the oil into the stock with the sandpaper lightly.
                I let it set for 10 minutes or so keeping the stock wet with the Watco oil during this time.
                I then wiped off excess and let dry. Next day applied and handrubbed in another thin coat (no sandpaper)
                Repeated next day
                "I am the master of my unspoken words, and a slave to those that should have remained unspoken. ...


                • #9
                  Originally posted by Orlando View Post

                  your handguards still look way too "fat." slimming these down is 50% of the work in this process:


                  • #10
                    I slimmed them down to USGI Post War Size, I used a set of Correct Grade handguards for a template and calipers to measure with.
                    Dont think you can get much more accurate than that
                    "I am the master of my unspoken words, and a slave to those that should have remained unspoken. ...


                    • #11
                      Im checking the new rear hand guard and it seems a bit long. I lined up the clip cut out with the old hand guard and the rear end of the new guard is about 3/16" longer. Should I just cut it off to the same overall lenght of the old one? SHould the rear hand guard be able to slid fore and aft a bit? I think I remember something about the op rod notch also.


                      • #12
                        Old topic but I had a question, how much wood should I remove from under the barrel on the stock? Do you want the barrel to rest on the wood at all?


                        • #13
                          The barrel doesnt normally contact underneath but usually if it rubs it will be on the sides of the barrel channel. Look at first picture
                          You can assembly the action in the stock with the rear handguard removed and slide a piece of paper under the barrel
                          There should be no contact
                          "I am the master of my unspoken words, and a slave to those that should have remained unspoken. ...


                          • #14
                            Alright, thank you. I reworked a stock with my new knife and it was a bit sharper than I thought and removed a lot of wood a little fast. I put some grease the wood to see if it rubbed on the barrel and it did not. So that is a plus. I just wanted to make sure it wouldn't negatively effect my accuracy.

                            Great topic by the way. I reference it a lot. All the work I did on my stock came from your topic here. Everything works smoothly now. I was surprised how much I needed to work the stock to get perfect function. Well done.


                            • #15
                              Use a Sharpie

                              Originally posted by JR1987 View Post
                              Old topic but I had a question, how much wood should I remove from under the barrel on the stock? Do you want the barrel to rest on the wood at all?
                              You do want to make sure the op rod in not contacting the barrel channel or the stock on the right side. I doubt your od rod will be hitting in the bottom of the channel but it's worth checking.

                              I'm in the process of fitting a nicley striped birch stock and rear guard to my Mini-G. On these Mini-G's the op rod is bent a little differently then a Garand and the stock channel has to be deepen for clearance, not much but some.

                              I used a black Sharpie marker to coat the op rod on the bottom and the side where it comes up and out the stock to the bolt. I fully assembled the rifle then rack the slide many times pulling on the op rod handle in all directions, up, down, in & out. The ink transfered to the wood and showed up very well. I just sanded the ink off, repeated the process until I had a good amount of clearance everywhere. She passed the tilt test just fine but I also wanted to make sure the op rod wouldn't hit during live fire. I took the Sharpie with me to the range and repeated again firing a couple clips of ammo, I didn't find any signs of the op rod touching the stock. Now I just have to stain and oil, I can't wait to get this finished and see those stripes POP!
                              Guy Wilson
                              CMP Customer# 168038

                              Be careful what you wish for.....