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NOTE REGARDING 1911 PISTOLS PURCHASED FROM CMP:
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C. You must list a price, and make it easily visible, not just lost in the description. Ads without a price will be deleted. It is ok to list a price and OBO (or best offer); however, no auction-style listings
D. As noted in item #4, provide ALL and ACCURATE details. i.e color, size, caliber, year, make, model, condition, defects, etc
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F. List shipping, pick-up or delivery options for the buyer, as well as cost.
G. Be sure to mark your ad as "SOLD" once the items are sold.


8. Do not bump ads older than 90 days without moderator approval. Ads older than 90 days will be locked if they get bumped.


9. Do not bump an ad more than once within a 24-hour period. Ads bumped multiple times within 24 hours will be locked or deleted. Members who continually do this will have their ads locked or deleted, and will lose your privilege to post in the Marketplace.


10. Remove previous bump posts so as to keep the size of the threads to a minimum. Nobody wants to have to search through 4+ pages of "Bump" or "ttt" posts simply to find information on the item listed.
If not removed, mods will remove them and/or delete the thread if it gets out of hand.


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12. If an item is sold, please mark the thread as such. This will help eliminate the old threads coming back up, as well as help those looking for specific items.


13. For WTB items anywhere in the Marketplace:
- Only respond to a WTB ad if you possess the requested item or have specific knowledge of that item’s availability. For example, do not post, “Check eBay” or “Check Gunbroker.”
- Once you have found/purchased the item(s) desired, delete the thread so as to not waste other members' time and allow for other threads to have visibility.


14. Keep the classified threads clean of extraneous/fluff comments and questions, regardless of how innocent or praiseworthy. This prevents derailing the thread and generating wasteful, opinionated discussions, as well as surreptitious bumping of threads.
If you have a technical or knowledge question relating to a listed item, start a new thread or search and add to an existing thread.
If you want to thank or praise a seller or item, DON'T do it in the sale thread as it unnecessarily bumps a stale thread, and said comments will be deleted. Instead, do the person the courtesy of posting in the Buyer/Seller Feedback section here:


Basically, if you don't have a question DIRECTLY related to a sale/trade/purchase of a specific thread, don't post! And this particularly applies to stomping a member’s ad concerning their asking price as there is a tendency to post negative replies when someone lists an item for sale that others consider overpriced.
We will not tolerate members stomping another member's ad concerning their asking price.
This also includes posting low-ball offers. If you want to make an offer lower than the asking price, even if it states OBO, do it via PM or email.
If an item is sold and the listing member deleted the price (which is their prerogative) and you want to know what the price was, do NOT post in the thread…send the member a PM.

Those who continually stomp or hijack other member's ads will face temporary, and even permanent suspension of their forum privileges.


15. No duplicate or multiple threads in different sections for the same item. Pick one section, the most applicable, and post there. Additional duplicate threads will be deleted.


16. You may not use the signature block function to solicit purchases, trades and/or sales. That is why we have the Marketplace...post a thread with your specific WTB, WTS, WTT ad.
You may have up to two lines stating you are looking or searching for a particular rifle/weapon and serial number.
As with individual posts, signature blocks/lines are subject to the same forum rules and will be handled accordingly if they violate any forum rules, policies/procedures or take up too much room of a post.


OTHER TIPS/GUIDELINES
- Buyers and Sellers should verify each other’s identity before sending money and/or products. If possible, get each other’s phone number and have a quick conversation to confirm the transaction details.
- As a suggestion: sellers should consider using delivery confirmation to avoid conflicts from buyers; saying they never received the products.
- Buyers, get to know the seller a little before you blindly send cash. If something does not seem right; it probably isn't. If something seems too good to be true; it probably is. Contact a moderator or report a thread/post that appears to be a scam.
- Respect fellow members. This section is a great place to support/help out fellow members and occasionally make new friends. Please be respectful to your fellow members. Maybe try selling here to a member instead of eBay, maybe save them a buck or two. If you have any questions, problems or concerns feel free to contact a moderator or admin.
- We do not require members to keep ads, or keep a listing price in the thread. It is your ad, so you are free to delete it at your discretion, as well as remove the asking price if you so desire. If someone is curious about the price for what an item sold, contact the seller via PM…do NOT post in thread.
- Lastly, don't forget the <b>Buyer/Seller Feedback section</b>

Be sure to express a good or bad experience with your buyer or seller, and let others know what to expect. Also be sure to check there for a member if you are concerned BEFORE you buy.


MODERATION RULES/ENFORCEMENT
1. All spammers get banned instantly and permanently.
2. Inappropriate or out of hand threads shall be closed with or without reason posted for the closure or deleted at the discretion of the Mods/Admins.
3. If you cannot follow the rules set forth, your posts may be deleted, removed, or edited by the Moderators.
4. If you repeatedly do not follow the rules set forth, you will be banned from this section or from the CMP Forum for any length of time from 2 days to permanently, at the discretion of the Moderators.

NOTE: These rules can change at any time. Administrators and Moderators have the right to make any decision that fits the website and its users.


DISCLAIMER
The CMP, any of its staff and forum administrators/moderators assume NO liability or responsibility for Marketplace transactions. Members will use at their own risk, and CMP will not be responsible for any disputes or claims between members involving a transaction.
The Civilian Marksmanship Program forum is intended primarily to be a technically-oriented website for professional, courteous, and intellectual discussion of CMP matches, activities, firearms and related events. We are an online community founded by enthusiasts, for enthusiasts, of all ages and walks of life. Remember that we have youth CMP participants who view this site. Please enjoy your stay and with your help, we can make the CMP Forums safe for all.


The opinions and posts on this site do not necessarily reflect those of The Civilian Marksmanship Program.


If you have any questions, please contact a Moderator

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03A3 pinned stocks

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  • #16
    Originally posted by M106 View Post
    would it be best to just bed it before it happens?
    Bedding would not help unless you’re talking about a Weatherby style bedding job where a threaded rod/bracket are encased in a milled channel filled with bedding compound.

    I have a very limited engineering background so perhaps a professional can chime in. I suspect that the traditional bolt/nut combination differs in three respects. First, it adds a slight compressive force or at least prevents material from bulging and splitting under recoil. Secondly, the traditional bolt is simply thicker than the pin and will flex less under recoil. Lastly, the flat surfaces of the nut and bolt head add some additional bearing surface against recoil that a pin doesn’t have. I am quite unsure of the third point, as I have seen pictures of Mauser 98 stocks where a crack propagated from the cap/bit of the crossbolt.

    Larry Potterfield made an interesting claim that Remington traditionally uses the threaded pin in an old MidwayUSA how-to video. A quick online search shows that some older (up to at least the 90s) Remington 700 rifles do indeed use a single “pin” just forward of the trigger pocket.

    It’s not particularly difficult to find an original 03A3 S stock with cross bolts. We do, however, live in somewhat of a golden age for as-issued 03 shooting as the Minelli stock is quite decent and readily available. There are a few minor inletting issues to correct but overall they are pretty well designed and the CNC machining is very precise and consistent across multiple Minelli stocks I’ve used/examined. You can use surplus crossbolt and either a GI bushing or a McMaster Carr spacer (“ Slotted Unthreaded Spacers 21/64" OD, 1" Long”) in the rear action screw hole. For the latter I cut through the slot and expand the spacer until it fits snugly inside the Minelli stock’s screw hole.
    "As the troops used to say, 'If the country is good enough to live in, it’s good enough to fight for.' With privilege goes responsibility."

    -Eugene B. Sledge

    Comment


    • #17
      Originally posted by tinydata
      Mr. Beard, is the design purpose of the grasping grooves written out somewhere? The 1918 edition of the bayonet training manual instructs soldiers to place “the left hand, palm against side of rifle, at the most convenient position in front of the rear sight, so that the left arm is only slightly bent” in the guard position. The 1940 edition has it slightly different as “at the most convenient position in front of the balance.” Both manuals have drawings that show the soldier grasping the rifle just forward of the lower band.

      The short guard position places the left hand “just in rear of the stacking swivel.”

      In both cases it does not seem like the left hand is doing much with the grasping grooves.

      It would be very interesting to see a detailed account of the process of going from type S to B to C.

      I do not have the book you describe nor do I consider myself an expert on bayonet usage and combat. I'm only repeating what I had been told by someone far more knowledgeable than me.


      Bayonets were normally used by rear echelon troops for guarding prisoners. It was safer than flying bullets and had a more profound psychological effect for subduing prisoners. The modes you describe fit that application.


      If I were reduced to using a bayonet in combat against a bayonet-armed charging adversary, however, I wouldn't be grabbing the stock in front of the lower band. Indeed, I would want to get my hands as far to the rear as possible. In that case, grasping grooves would come in handy. REAL HANDY!


      And that's my 2c worth.


      J.B.

      Comment


      • #18
        John is correct. If one looks at enough military stocks of that era (Japanese Type 99's especially for some reason), nicks in the stock foreend from bayonet practice are typically on the right side ahead of the lower band.

        Comment


        • #19
          A major cause of cracked 1903 stocks today is a missing bushing in the rear receiver bolt hole, or use of the copper tube “replacement” that comes with many new stocks. It’s an odd size (you can’t just buy a piece of pipe from home depot and cut to length) and many people assume the thin tube that accompanies new stocks is Ok, it is not!
          Numrich has these in stock for less than an arm and a leg, probably some other suppliers as well.
          Looking for Guard Screw Bushing, Rear, New for your U.S. Military Springfield 1903, 1903A1, 1903A3, 1903A4 firearm? Browse the large selection of Guard Screw Bushing, Rear, New products for your U.S. Military Springfield 1903, 1903A1, 1903A3, 1903A4

          That bolt must be immobilized by the bushing, if it can move in the hole you are asking for a crack.
          Jh
          Last edited by ZvenoMan; 03-26-2023, 10:20 AM.
          Zvenoman

          Comment


          • #20
            Originally posted by togor View Post
            John is correct. If one looks at enough military stocks of that era (Japanese Type 99's especially for some reason), nicks in the stock foreend from bayonet practice are typically on the right side ahead of the lower band.
            Originally posted by John Beard View Post
            I do not have the book you describe nor do I consider myself an expert on bayonet usage and combat. I'm only repeating what I had been told by someone far more knowledgeable than me.


            Bayonets were normally used by rear echelon troops for guarding prisoners. It was safer than flying bullets and had a more profound psychological effect for subduing prisoners. The modes you describe fit that application.


            If I were reduced to using a bayonet in combat against a bayonet-armed charging adversary, however, I wouldn't be grabbing the stock in front of the lower band. Indeed, I would want to get my hands as far to the rear as possible. In that case, grasping grooves would come in handy. REAL HANDY!


            And that's my 2c worth.


            J.B.
            Except the 1940 US training manual for bayonet fighting literally says to grasp ahead of the lower band. Earlier manuals, including those with M1903s in the illustrations, depict the same thing. Period photos depicting US bayonet training show troops doing it as the manual specifies, not holding the grasping grooves.

            The left arm needs to be straight enough to guide, while bent enough to parry and react. Grasping the grasping grooves doesn’t give the fine motor control needed.











            Comment


            • #21
              Originally posted by togor View Post
              John is correct. If one looks at enough military stocks of that era (Japanese Type 99's especially for some reason), nicks in the stock foreend from bayonet practice are typically on the right side ahead of the lower band.
              I cannot find many photos of the Japanese Army in training or combat but none of photos I did see show a soldier holding the grasping grooves on Arisaka rifles. There is a well known photo of a Japanese soldier bayoneting a Chinese prisoner for practice. His right hand is on the small of the stock, his left hand is forward of the grooves near the band. I've refrained from posting that photo (or another showing a Japanese soldier using the same technique to spear an infant) here.

              Back to US doctrine. Here's a 1938 training film if you don't believe us: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zjeZ...nel=WarFilmsTV

              In a long thrust, the right hand delivers power whereas the left hand controls the point. The slight bend in the left arm provides some snap and unpredictability. If you put your hand just forward of the 1905 rear sight, not only are you not really engaging the grasping grooves, but you have now bent the arm at almost a 90 degree angle.

              It is more difficult to effectively parry with your left hand aft of the "balance" or center of gravity. You need to have the left arm and hand out there to control the bayonet tip. In the man to man combat that John talks about, if you don't effectively parry, the enemy soldier is going to run you through with his bayonet. Proper technique is going to beat timidity.

              Finally, the bayonet was not designed or issued with guarding prisoners in mind.

              From the provisional 1907 manual: "The infantry soldier relies mainly on fire action to disable the enemy, but he should know that personal combat is often necessary to complete the success and he must therefore be instructed in the use of the bayonet."

              From the 1940 manual: "The will to meet and destroy the enemy in hand-to-hand combat is the spirit of the bayonet."
              Last edited by tinydata; 03-26-2023, 08:00 PM.
              "As the troops used to say, 'If the country is good enough to live in, it’s good enough to fight for.' With privilege goes responsibility."

              -Eugene B. Sledge

              Comment


              • #22
                Thread drift from A3 stocks, but.....Remember the bayonet was originally a thrusting weapon. The Germans liked the long bayo on the long G98 specifically because it gave them reach with a specifically taught thrusting motion. Later they came to understand that this tactic was obsolete in trench warfare and they came around to carbines. The point is, reach matters in a bayo fight. Gotta think both offensively and defensively. Can't get your left hand disabled in the first parry.

                Comment


                • #23
                  The Marines viewed the bayonet as one of the most important weapons for combat. So a lot of their training was bayonet training.

                  I've also heard urban legends that the finger grooves on the stocks were made to trust bayonets, but I found just like Tinydata and Ken said, this wasn't correct.

                  This is from the personal Scrap Book of the Commanding Officer of the Marine Infantry School that prepared the Marines for France. The big emphasis of this training was the bayonet and then trench warfare. So I have a lot of pics of them practicing with bayonets and then also even bayonet training in mock trenches.

                  Here is just a small sample, where they took pics of all the movements. I found these so fascinating when I found them.

                  I don't want to hijack this thread too much, but if you guys want to see some of this stuff, it's truly amazing.







                  Comment


                  • #24
                    As I said the Marines viewed the bayonet as one of the most important tools for combat. On one spectrum they trained for 1000 yard shots, on the other they trained how to kill up close and personal with a bayonet, against a bayonet equipped opponent.

                    But even when I was in the late 90's, we trained a lot on bayonet fighting such as this.

                    It was honestly really neat for me to see this stuff as these pics were taken in 1918/19, but it wasn't much different than when I was in.








                    WWII is the exact same too. They just didn't use the finger grooves.

                    Last edited by cplnorton; 03-26-2023, 02:58 PM.

                    Comment


                    • #25
                      Originally posted by ken792 View Post
                      Except the 1940 US training manual for bayonet fighting literally says to grasp ahead of the lower band. Earlier manuals, including those with M1903s in the illustrations, depict the same thing. Period photos depicting US bayonet training show troops doing it as the manual specifies, not holding the grasping grooves.

                      The left arm needs to be straight enough to guide, while bent enough to parry and react. Grasping the grasping grooves doesn’t give the fine motor control needed.

                      The book you refer to was written in 1940. The Springfield rifle dates to 1903 and was a successor to the Krag which has grasping grooves and goes all the way back to 1892. Bayonet fighting was very predominant in those days and perhaps was a bit different from 1940, especially when adversaries had much longer rifles.



                      Again, I make no claim to being an expert at bayonet fighting. But speaking from personal observation, I would want my hands as far to the rear as I could reasonably control the rifle.


                      J.B.


                      p.s.,


                      I will point out that a bayonet fighter can engage his adversary's hands before entering his adversary's dangerous space. If he could quickly inflict a wound on an adversary hand instead of going for the kill in his dangerous space, then that would give him immediate advantage. Again, I make no claim to being an expert at bayonet fighting.

                      Comment


                      • #26
                        Mr. Beard, the 1907 provisional manual specifies “left hand just above the lower band.” This rough hand placement didn’t change through the service lives of the M1903, M1, and M14. There are pictures of bayonet drill with the M14 grasped just aft of the ferrule/gas piston assembly. This is a remarkably long time for technique to remain mostly unmodified.

                        The experts’ instructions on the matter are pretty clear. I have not engaged in bayonet fencing but I will say that epee fencing provides some insights. There are techniques taught that engage an opponent’s foot and sword hand, but these risk an unblocked strike to your body. In a sport where the first touch scores, this works. Scoring a non-vital wound does not do much for you if momentum behind the opponent’s bayonet runs through your throat or chest.

                        Since we are discussing anecdotes, if the grasping grooves are designed for bayonet fighting, why would Springfield Armory retain them on some of the Type B stocks seen on M1922 training rifles?
                        "As the troops used to say, 'If the country is good enough to live in, it’s good enough to fight for.' With privilege goes responsibility."

                        -Eugene B. Sledge

                        Comment


                        • #27
                          I recall an instructor of English literature advising the class to "avoid the obvious" in creative writing. However, since the various grooves and checkering on everything from 1886 Lebels, Evans Repeating rifles, 1895 Winchesters, 1903s, 17 Enfields, No 4s to my Ruger #1 are located where my left hand falls when firing.... I will embrace the obvious here and conclude that the various modifications to the wood are to improve my grip when firing (or possibly carrying) the piece. I can't recall much from my brief experience in Army ROTC bayonet training other than being told that, the spirit of the bayonet was "kill kill" and "don't go through the dummy into the tree", which I managed to do anyway.... Good Shooting...

                          Comment


                          • #28
                            Well said Ceresco.
                            Lacking any specific documentation (sigh....) I suggest that it may be as simple as:
                            Some Shooters found value in grasping grooves.
                            Some Bayonet users found use in grasping grooves.
                            Shooters AND bayonet users who didn't care for the grasping grooves found they did not get in the way.
                            We had been using the grasping grooves and simply kept using them until we didn't.

                            Many of us familiar with governmental decision making, as well as military decision making, from the top down, may recall more than a few decisions to continue doing something, and/or stop doing something that seemed to make no sense whatsoever, they just "did".

                            JH
                            Zvenoman

                            Comment


                            • #29
                              I recall bayonet training with the M1 Garand in the early 1960's. Our instructor, Sgt. Sanchez, told/showed us what "The Book!" said. He then proceeded to tell us to fight dirty, as dirty as possible, and kill our opponent. If the bayonet couldn't be pulled out of the dead guys body, shoot!..So we wondered, "Sarge, why not just shoot the guy to begin with?" He was not amused.
                              *The Garand stock did NOT have a grasping groove..at least ours didn't.
                              Last edited by BobJ50; 03-28-2023, 02:55 PM. Reason: added info

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